Adding a bust dart to a dart-less sewing pattern

Most women will benefit from having bust darts incorporated into their upper body garments. It ensures a flattering silhouette and makes sure that the hemline sits evenly around the body - even for women with a small chest!

If you are using a sewing pattern from Beklaedt you can be sure that shape around the bust is already incorporated into the pattern. Even if you can't directly see the dart, for instance if you are working with the Ranunkel dress pattern where the dart has been pivoted into a flared skirt, it is there. 

However, not all sewing pattern designers (or ready-to-wear designers for that matter) think it necessary to have shape in the bust area. Especially if the clothes are meant to be oversized you can be almost certain of a "flat" shape. I think this is a great mistake. 

Luckily, it's easy to add a bust dart to a sewing pattern yourself. The depth of the dart (that is the distance between the two legs of the dart) needed depends on your body measurements and cup size (bra size).

My advise is to try with a small-ish dart first: about 2 cm (3/4 inch) for a cup size between EU A-D and 3-4 cm (1-1.6 inches) for a cup size between EU E-H. You'll be surprised with what even a small dart can accomplish in terms of improved fit!

For bigger boobs you can make the depth of the dart even bigger or split the bust dart into 2 separate darts; a bust dart by the side seam and a waist dart. This will usually give a nicer end result but isn't always needed.   

Follow the steps below:

Step 1

find the front bodice piece

Step 2 

draw a vertical line from about the centre of the waistline and up to the apex point (where the fullest part of the bust is, marked here by a red circle). Then draw a connecting line towards the armhole that sits at the lower third of the armhole. Finally, draw the dart line towards the side seam. 

Step 3 

Cut the front bodice into 3 separate pieces (1a, 2a and 3a) but let 1a be connected to 3a by the armhole and 3a be connected to 2a by the apex point. Pull 3a slightly away from 1a which in turn shifts 2a downwards. This will create a bust dart along the side seam.

(the width/depth of the dart depends on your body and needs and how fitted the front bodice should be. There are no set rules, only trial and error)

Step 4 

create a new front bodice by tracing around the outer edge. Extend 1a from step 3 vertically towards the waistline to meet the new waistline created by the shift downwards by 2a. You can also add a waist dart if you want to maintain the original waistline measurement. Remember to shorten the darts slightly so the apex points don't sit directly on top of the fullest part of the bust.